Lake Huron 2026 Part I: Lake Michigan
After a slow start to the season, we are on our big trip of the summer. We started with a couple days in Escanaba just to enjoy the local happenings and gather our wits.
July 24-26, Escanaba
From Dexter, we hit the road bright and early Friday morning, spurred on by the promise of "Free Fish!" Sure enough, when we reached the Esky marina at 5:00pm, it was packed with hordes of locals and redolant in the aroma of fried fish. The event was sponsored by Michigan Sea Grant and included not only free fish but a visit by their fine two-masted schooner, the "Inland Seas." Their mission is to educate people about the Great Lakes, specifically the 4 that touch Michigan, and all the benefits we derive from the waters. Most importantly, they delivered on the free fish. Both the perch and walleye were delicious.
Saturday was Marina Fest. A festival including live music and food trucks on the marina lawn. The stage is now upgraded from the quaint, homespun version made from a flatbed and retired sails, but the atmosphere was still friendly and relaxed. Mostly jazz and blues this year plus a bluegrass band that had a whole set of fishing songs.
Job 1 (& 2) today was pumping out the black water holding tanks since we were about 80% full after all our July company. Since traffic was slow I assumed the service dock would be at our disposal (so to speak), so I was flabbergasted when informed no pumpout was possible until the repair guys got there...probably Monday. We reconciled ourselves to use marina facilities or our (not yet full) forward head until then and we went off to hear the Marquette City Band playing in the park. All in all, a relaxing interlude before beginning our big trip.
July 27, Washington Island
We hung around Esky until the rain stopped and the plumbers informed us we could be a test vessel for the pumpout repair. After a half hour of unsatisfactory effort and straining with that operation we concluded we'd just have to hold it until we got to Beaver Island.
The trip across Green Bay was without incident. We timed our arrival to avoid any chance of meeting the Rock Island State Park ferry (Lori's nemesis and sworn enemy) in the narrow entry to Jackson Harbor. We tied up and hurried next door to catch dinner on the deck at the Jackson Harbor Soup Shop which has limited and variable hours (4:00-7:30 on this day.) This is a "hurry up and wait" situation as the whole system is the opposite of a lean process. (Anyone who has been with me in the school pickup in Dexter knows this kind of thing can drive me over the edge). Customers wait in line until it is their turn...benches have thoughtfully been added since last season. No one cares how many are in your party until you reach the front of the line. You are expected to just make friendly chit-chat with the other patrons gazing at the empty tables and maybe get a drink from the outdoor bar while you wait. You're not going to get seated until they are ready to take your order and prepare your food. It sounds like a horrible system and I really have to turn off a big part of my brain and analyze it outside the framework of lean manufacturing. It works because it's transparent and fair. No one is going to jump the line with a reservation and it doesn't matter if your party is large or small...you'll go when it's your turn. Also, you won't be seated until they're ready to pay attention to you...no one is sitting around stewing about the slow service because you can see it's not your turn yet and it's your choice to wait...or not. So, could the system be more efficient? Probably, but if you're standing in line at the remote tip of Door County you probably don't have anything else that's pressing. And the food is great!
July 28-29, Beaver Island
The wind came up in the night but died down sufficiently by sunrise that we struck out for Beaver Island, about an 8 hour trip. The waves were still crashing into the harbor entrance pretty good so we plowed through and had a few minutes of pretty exciting ride (Jim is bummed that he lost a fender overboard) but it settled into a rhythm of 3 ft waves after we rounded Rock Island. Other than a single freighter, we encountered no traffic.
We hoped to hit the pumpout upon arrival but there was a large boat tied up to the service dock waiting out the weather so we had to hold it another 24 hours. We had a bike ride and grocery stop before dinner in and a quiet evening.
Wednesday brought us some warm, calm weather so we biked to the town beach and had a good swim. The big boat left the service dock so we were finally able to empty the holding tanks. We were pleasantly surprised to learn that Beaver Island offers FREE pumpouts!
We had been told we really needed to experience the sunset dinner at the Beaver Island Lodge so we decided to splurge. Besides, they would send a van to fetch us (but we walked back). The patio and the view were lovely and the food was good, if pricey. We'll probably go back.
July 30, Straits State Harbor
Picture perfect trip from Beaver Island to Mackinaw City. It's always a thrill to pass under the Mighty Mackinac Bridge. When you first see the bridge before transiting the Grey's Reef Passage it looks like two little, tiny goalposts on the horizon. They get bigger for the next four hours or so, morphing first into a tiny bridge until all at once you're under and there's Lake Huron!
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